First Blue Parts (Dykem)

Well i really love how dykem looks. Im pretty much following the great examples of those before me such as curiousmarc.

However im using spray max 2k, 2 part clear coat. These are special paints that when when activated mix internally and the cans only last 48 hours. My first try with it and it rules. SUPER clear nice thick clear coat!

Im using an iwata single action airbrush to apply the dykem. Then using the duplicolor metalcast anodized blue to knock down the purple some in the dykem followed by the uv clear coat.

Here's my first few pieces. I need to polish the rest of the parts more before i spay them.

Couple odds and ends

Final painting on the feet parts started

Some paint on the shoes

a little more welding on the battery box's (still learning)

First Steps

Well R2 took his first steps!



They were a little sketchy which is why i decided to move the center caster in the last post.

Decided to move my caster forward in the center foot. I just took the metal plate i got with my jag bracket and cut it to fit. Then just used the same plate i already had and bolted it right to it. I counter sunk the screws so the caster would sit flush. Then i welded some nuts on the back so i could secure the caster easily. The whole thing bolts together in a couple stages from the bottom so no tricky screws to reach etc. The caster is moved fwd as far as possible.
Heres the pics

caster position when reversing...

caster position when moving forward

Electronics Panel

Next i needed somethin to mount the electronics too. I had a big chunk of delrin and cut it to size. I decided to make a folding electronics panel and mount it to the door. This way it it will fold out and provide easy access to both sides of the panel.

Heres a vid of how it folds out.

Testing the electronics.

Battery Mounting

We'll since i got legs on this little guy i figure he needs some power. I planned to go 2-3-2 at some point and ordered a frame upgrade to do so... However I wanna get him done before holloween. So i decided to go with an optima blue top batter.... HEAVY but as many say i wont have to worry about running out of juice.

The first prob is i didnt have a way to mount it. My frame had the 3 slots for the smaller sla batteries. No worries pulled out the jig saw and cut out a new plate to fit the optima. I also sanded off the lip on the bottom of the battery.

Here is is with the battery inserted.

Ankle Locks

Since Im using a single caster on the middle foot i need to lock it from pivoting. I just took some 1/4" aluminum and cut out some wedges to lock it in place.

To make the template i held up a piece of card stock level with the top of the foot and took a pencil and rubbed along the edge of the ankle radius. This transferred the curve perfectly. Then cut and traced that onto the aluminum and cut with a band saw. Next i smoothed and adjusted with belt sander.

Then i just tapped a hole in the ankle and attached. Seems to work quite nicely. No play either way.

Ill do a little more trimming to make it pretty.

HE STANDS!!!!

Test fitting some leg parts. 

Had to cut, drill, and tap a center ankle addapter.

He Stands for the first time!!!

Battery box continued....

Tapped...

Little grinding after some welding...

More Battery Box

Got the 5/8 - 18 tap for the knurled fittings

Started cutting the side plates. 

Aluminum Battery Box

So i decided to make some aluminum battery box's... Other than the battery harnesses this is one of the last parts i need for r2. These are 8.25 Inches tall and should fit my NPC motors.

I first designed it out in cad with alibre. I ordered up my aluminum.

Battery box's see em?  I do :)

Stock clamped and ready to cut. 

Makin chips.

Front done.

Parting the back.

Heres the back end cap. Milled out a pocket for lightness. If you look close you can see the step around the ends. This makes it very easy to align the skins parts. 

I cut the 3" aluminum tube in half for the top and bottom. Look at that perfect fit! 

Now the ugly :) Im still learning to Tig Weld. Ill grind off these ugly welds once im all done and it should look nice and smooth. 

I had to get some more argon gas so the rest of the welds will have to wait. 

Sanding Dome Panels

This is pretty straight forward post. I finally got around to sanding all of the dome panels all the way to 2000 grit. I followed the same method as with my dome. Started with 320 on an orbital sander, next 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, and finally 2000.

After 600 Grit

After 2000 Grit

Wood legs.

I got some cnc cut legs from R2-ATL run to hold me till i get some alum together. These are great legs and ill stick them on a second droid at some point so they wont go to waste :)


Ready to glue up... Note that slot at the bottom for wires goes to the back.

All glued up with a little sanding.

Time for some bondo. Most recommend evercoat instead but i didn't want to wait for shipping. However i used the higher quality bondo gold. It goes on much smoother than regular bondo.

Next glued on the beefy ankles with some liquid nails. I just used tape to hold it overnight. Seems pretty strong. I have a full set of jag ankles and  I was tempted to just cut off the wood ankles and secure them to the alum ankles but this way when i get my aluminum legs together ill have two full sets of legs and ankles.

Little more bondo and some primer... Then i hit it with some 400 grit and painted white. Don't have pics of that yet tho.

Oops also had to cut the slots in the legs. I used the milling machine for this. 

Middle Foot and Caster

Its time to mount the caster to my middle foot. I have a Jag foot shell and the mounting kit for casters. I ordered one of the gladiator casters from McMcaster and wow its huge and heavy.

Part number:

22455T28

I also ordered some of those rubber vibration isolating mounts from mcmaster car. I ordered 4 of the 1/2 and 4 of the 1" mounts as i wasnt sure how i was gonna secure this caster yet. I belive these are these as curiousmarc's is using for his casters.

Part number:

93945K36

Now first thing i noticed is using the jag mounting plate and the 1" rubber isolation spacers the gladiator caster is pretty much the exact same height as the wheels protruding from my senna drives. The hole locations are a bit problematic but there is plenty of metal left to drill holes that line up with the gladiator caster. 

As you can see i just marked the locations out and away from the standard holes. 

I then just drilled those holes and I tig wleded a couple nuts on the back side of the bracket. Then just thread on spacers. The gladiator lines up perfectly just secure with some 1/4-20 screws, washers, and nuts. 

As i mentioned its about the same as the stick out from my senna drives. Perspective is weird here. 

All the feet together.